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Hans Kammerlander 汉斯 卡默兰德
1956年生于South Tyrol
他和梅斯纳尔（nhold Messner)合作登了七座8000米，包括1986年在加舒尔布鲁木1、2峰之间的穿越，那一次耗时8天，全部在7500以上的高度。
Kammerlander在地区爬了2000条路线(包括Grands Jorasses北壁I，马特合恩Matterhorn北壁，Eiger北壁)。
1992，他又创下一个记录 23小时26分钟在马特合恩(Matterhorn)爬上爬下4次。
1996，他登只用23.5小时就回到BC，回来时而下。登珠峰之前，他先登了希夏邦马，他说： 我登顶那天，正是5月10日，珠峰山难那天。天气非常冷，足有零下40度，风非常大。我和妻子在7400米扎了营地，第二天我花了3小时登顶，用营地里的从7400米滑雪而下，这是最后一次检验装备，我终于可以相信它了，可以去珠峰了他对珠峰滑雪下降是这样说的：我先滑下大约300米55度的坡，然后脱了滑雪板，穿上，反复数次，下到7700米然后再也没有脱过滑雪板。
他一生从不用氧气，他认为自从梅斯纳尔(Messner)和哈伯勒(Habeler)历史性的努力后，氧气已经被登山运动抛弃了。
Kammerlander决定要登上所有8000米的，那时他就加入了真正高手的。
2000年夏天，他要去攀登最危险的K2，1999年他只差150米到顶峰，雪崩的危险让他退却了。1998年以来，还没有人登顶K2。
登山经历：
1982～Cho Oyo(南坡)
1984～加舒尔布鲁木峰1、2，GasherbrumI II(历史性的穿越)
1985～Dhaulagiri，安那普尔纳峰Annapurna(西北壁)
1986～Makalu，Lhotse
1988～Cerro Torre(17小时上下)
1989～Poincenot
1990～Nanga Parbat(滑雪下)
1992～马特获恩峰Matterhorn(24小时上下4次)，Shivling
1993～
1994～Broad Peak(从7,000米滑雪下)
1996～Shisha Pangma(从7,400米滑雪下)
1996～珠穆朗玛峰Everest(滑雪下)
1998～Kanchenjunga(从7,400米滑雪下)
1999～K2(差150米登顶)
Born 1956 in Acereto / South Tyrol.
The adept of Reinhold Messner, together they have climbed seven 8,000 metre summits including the traverse between Gasherbrum I and II in 1986. The traverse took 8 days, always on an altitude above 7,500 metres. This climb is considered by Messner, to be his supreme n achievement. In 1991, Messner and Kammerlander teamed up again, and made a climbing / hiking travel around South-Tyrol, 1,200 km climbing and gaining 100,000 metres.
All in all, Kammerlander has been climbing over 2,000 routes in the and Dolmites. (Including Grandes Jorasses North Wall, Matterhorn North Wall and Eiger North Wall).
In 1992, he sets another record by climbing Matterhorn up and down four times in 23 hours and 26 minutes.
In 1996 he climbs Everest in the record time of 23,5 hours, base-camp and back. The was partly done on ski.
As a warming up and to acclimatize before Everest, Hans scaled off Shisma Pangma: -"I did it on that very day, when all these people died on Everest - May 10. It was terribly cold - at least 40 degrees below zero, the strongest wind. My wife and I set the camp at the altitude of 7,400 m., and the next day I reached the summit in 3 hours. I left my skis in the camp, so I did the ski-descent from 7,400 m. It was the final testing of my equipment, and now I could trust it. The next point was Everest".
His comment on the ski-descent of Everest: - "I skid down the first 300 meters at a gradient of 55 degrees, then I removed my skis and used my crampons several times until I reached 7,700 m. Then I put my skis back on and never removed them".
Kammerlander has never used supplemental oxygene on any of his climbs, in an interview he puts his view on the use of supplemental oxygene: - "After Messner and Habeler"s historical endeavor, I don"t justify the use of oxygen because I consider it no longer acceptable in this sport".
Kammerlander has now decided to climb all mountains above 8,000 metres, if seeding he will be joining the very few climbers that have managed this before...
In his third attemt on K2, Hans made it to the summit together with Jean Christophe Lafaille on July 22, 2001, they both was supposed to have climbed solo, but teamed up together and summited through the Cesen route. Hans also brought his skis to the summit to try become the first person to make a complete ski Descent of K2. However the conditions where bad and after 400 meters he decided to stop. - "When I saw a Korean climber falling down the wall, passing just few meters away from me, I took my skis off". Still he belives a ski-descent is possible: - "The wall was a stiff 60 degrees, it would had been like skiing on a bell tower roof". -"Somebody will do it, but he"ll need a lot of ability and a whole of luck. Skiing down K2 must be done in a honest way, as I always tried to behave. I heard of people who reached Everest top with plenty of oxygen and many s, lately. I heard Sherpas carried skis for them as well. This means corrupting the highest top of the world to an easy seven thousand peak".
When returning home from K2 during a press conference he stated he will not go for Manaslu that would be his last 8,000 meter mountain to climb to have completed all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters. - "Too many tragedies I lived on Manaslu, I will not face my bad dreams". On Manaslu, during his 1991 ition, his friends Karl Grossrubatscher and Friedl Mutschlechner died in the attempt to summit. However, he will continue climbing and nothing was said about attempting other 8,000 meter mountains again in the future. - "I can go on living with 13 tops instead of 14. There are so many beautiful mountains in the world I can climb now. Not Manaslu".
SELECTED CLIMBS
1982 - Cho Oyo (South Wall)
1984 - Gaherbrum I II (traverse)
1985 - Dhaulagiri
1985 - Annapurna (North West Wall)
1986 - Makalu
1986 - Lhotse
1988 - Cerro Torre (17 hours up down)
1989 - Poincenot
1990 - Nanga Parbat (ski descent)
1992 - Matterhorn (up down 4 times in 24 hours)
1992 - Shivling
1993 - Ama Dablam
1994 - Broad Peak (ski descent from 7,000 metres)
1996 - Shisha Pangma (ski descent from 7.400 metres)
1996 - Everest (ski-descent)
1998 - Kanchenjunga (ski-descent from 7.400 metres)
1999 - K2 (abandoned 150 metres from the summit due to avalanche risk)
1999 - Mutztagh Ata
2000 - K2 (attempt)
2001 - Ogre (failed)
2001 - K2 (through Cesen route) |
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发表于 2019-4-13 21:00:23
