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把手点与动作

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发表于 2019-4-13 21:02:46 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
On an artificial wall, holds are usually man-made pieces (sometimes real rock) that are attached to the wall by bolts that go through them and into the wall. Holds are all different shapes and sizes. The configuration of holds on the wall determines the "route," or the path to the top that the climber must follow.

在人工岩场,把手点通常也是人工的岩块(有时候是真的石头),然后再用螺丝固定在岩墙上;岩块有不同的形状和大小,它们的形状和位置决定了攀爬的路线。
Different kinds of holds have different names. Some are specific descriptions related to the shape of the hold, such as a chickenhead (a round hold that sticks out from the wall) or a bone or a urinal (deep, scooping hold). But there are also broad universal descriptions for how a hold works and how it is used:

不同的把手点有不同的名字,有些是由形状命名,像鸡头(一个圆形的点在墙的外边)、骨头或尿壶(深桶状的点),但也有较广泛通用的定义是看点的用途及效用。

Some "moves" that climbers use to get from hold to hold also have names.

有些者从点到点间的动作也有名字。

Holds

Bucket: A big hold, or one that is in-cut, that you can really get your hand into or around.

大的把手点,或是大洞,你可以整把握住或放进去。

Crimper: A crimper is a small hold, just big enough for the fingertips, that you have to crimp your fingers to hold on to. A climb with lots of crimpers is "crimpy."

小点,只能够用指尖施力,必须把手指头弯起来,很多这类点的路线叫"crimpy"。

Downpull: A hold that can be used by pulling straight down. Usually very solid and straightforward.

可以用来垂直往下推的点,通常很牢固且直接的。

Finger pocket: A one- or two-finger pocket is a hold with a depression that you can only get that many fingers into.

一到二根手指头勉强可以放进的小凹洞。

Gaston: A move where one or both hands pull on a hold across the front of the body. Imagine it as trying to open closed elevator doors with one or both hands.

一个必需用一或两只手在身体前往两边横拉的点,就像要把开电梯门的动作。

Pinch: A hold that you squeeze the outsides of in order to hold on to it.

一个你得从外面捏紧才抓得住的点。

Sloper: Any hold that slopes downward so that you can"t lock onto it. Slopers are easy to slide or "grease" off of.

岩面向下倾斜的点,你无法很稳的固定在上面,很容易滑掉。

Sidepull: A hold that"s turned so it can only be used from the side. This kind of hold usually takes trickier body position.

只能用侧边的点,通常须要身体姿势的技巧。

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